Walnut vanity with live edge backsplash, inlays

Building a Walnut Vanity with Live Edge Backsplash and Inlays

If you would like to see more completion picture of this project or interested in ordering one please check out my custom furniture website “Walnut Vanity with Live Edge Backsplash and Inlays” where you will find all the details.

filling knot holes with epoxyI first started out milling and gluing up the wood for top of the floating vanity.  I arrange the boards so the board that had the bark inclusion in it would be at the top left corner.  As luck would have it, the slab I picked out has a similar bark inclusion on the left side.  I am thinking that this will be a nice subtle detail, where it will look like the vanity board was cut from the same slab somewhere along the line.

When I pour epoxy to fill a large void like this one, I of course use blue tape to seal up any holes on the other side and to create a damn along the edge to hold all the epoxy.  I also add about a 1/3 by volume some acetone or denatured alcohol to thin it out a little bit.  This allows it to flow faster into the deep crevices, allowing the air bubbles to escape before the epoxy skins over.  The thinner mixture reduces the number of bubbles that you have to work out.  In the final step, I go over it with a heat gun, this helps bring any remaining bubbles to the surface.  I use West Systems Epoxy for most of my glue ups as well as when I need to fill defects.

Safe and accurate way to cut a long miterOnce I had the vanity top assembled, I used my skill saw on a sled to cut the angle, this probably has a 20 degree angle that returns the counter top back to the wall.  To cut the miter for the apron to glue to, I tilted the blade on my table saw to 45 degrees and glued on a piece of pine along the edge to ride the fence so I could safely pass it across the table saw.

using glue blocks to clamp a miter tightI used a bunch of dominoes to help align the miter and add strength to the long mitered joint along the apron.  I used West Systems Epoxy to glue it all up.  I’m sure their will be several people (because their was last time I used glue blocks) that will tell me to use blue tape instead of the glue blocks.  However this is such a long piece, it would be pushing the blue tape to its strength limits.  I also needed to align the compound angle on the front corner as well as on the back corner.  To do this I needed some lateral movement to be able to shift the pieces left or right to make it all come out perfect.  The tape would not allow me to do this.  With the glue blocks and clamps I was able to clamp it just tight enough to hold it in position while I tapped it back and forth to get it all aligned just right.

compound miter I think the miters came out great.

Installing a french cleatSince this vanity will be floating, to attach it I came up with a cantilevered beam system.  It all started with installing the French cleat.  Yes, that is a Bosh impact driver, and the only reason why I bought it was because, if Izzy Swan can abuse the crap out of them and power a walking dinosaur, it should give me years of reliable service.

Installing support beams for a floating countertopHere I’m installing a the support beams.  I made the full depth and they press against the French cleat that is bolted to the wall.  That pressure against the cleat is surprisingly strong and holds up the counter as well as the really heavy stone onyx sink my client picked out.

Moving on to the back splash; to flatten the walnut slab, I used the method Nick Offerman made popular.  I built two parallel runners for a router sled to ride on.  The bit I’m using is a 1-1/2 inch DIA flat bottom fluted plunge bit.  You don’t want to take too big of a bite with that sucker unless you are holding on really good.  However, that large of a bit made quick work of flattening the slab.

hand cut bowtie inlays The customer specifically requested I get a slab with some cracks in it so I could add some decorative bowtie inlays in someplace that would make since.  I drew out some sizes I thought would go well with size of cracks in the slab, and use some spray adhesive to attach them to the ebony.  To save on cost, I used an ebony turning block.

I roughed the bowties out on the band saw, and use some files and chisels to refine the shape.  To install them I used a marking knife to trace out the shape, staked it in with a chisel, and hand chopped them out.  I glued them in place and used a hand plane to flush them up.

Live edge walnut back splash with bowtie inlays, butterfly inlayWalnut vanity with live edge backsplash, inlays

I used spar varnish on the vanity top, since it is a wet area, and a wiping varnish on the backsplash.  The sink is onyx with LED lights on the back to light it up.

 

 

 

 

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