This build was for a client earlier this year. She had this pattern on some wallpaper and loved it, so we incorporated the pattern into the bookshelf sides and carved it out with a V bit
Specialty Tools I used (affiliate links)
• West Systems Epoxy https://amzn.to/2LN9CLl
• 1/2” Flush trim pattern bit https://amzn.to/2NQdWuK
• Domino 500 – https://amzn.to/2ktOH5K
• Whiteside Setup Blocks https://amzn.to/2AESKoK
Here is how I built this beautiful bookshelf with an art deco pattern carved into the sides. The coolest part? It has solid wood adjustable shelves, which make it super functional.
Making the Template
Once I got the design approved by my client, I started by making a print-to-scale pattern. I used some spray adhesive to attach it to a piece of plywood to turn it into a reusable template.
Here’s a little trick I learned: don’t waste time trying to perfectly line up the drawing to the edge of the plywood. Just cut the plywood to match the edge of the drawing instead. Way easier.
With a sharp razor blade, I traced around my drawing, leaving just the pattern behind.
Now, this next step is probably more psychological than anything, but hear me out. All these years I’ve trained myself to leave the line when cutting out curves. So I grabbed some spray paint and created a negative of the pattern. This way, when I’m cutting out the pattern, I can leave the line and sand right up to it.
Cutting Out the Pattern
After the paint dried, I ripped off one side of the template (you’ll see why later).
For cutting the curves in the design, I could’ve used a jigsaw, but that’s a tool for savages. Instead, I plunged halfway through and freehanded it with the router. By only taking a shallow pass, the router is actually pretty easy to control around a curve.
Next, I chucked in a pattern bit with a bearing on it and, using a straight edge, routed out the straight parts of the pattern. Since I’d only taken a shallow pass on the curved areas, I used that same bit to clean up the curves. Then I did a final smoothing and shaping at the spindle sander.
Creating the Channel
Now it was time to cut the other side. I predrilled a starter hole, then used the same pattern bit to trace the template I had just made onto the other side. The bit is ¾ of an inch in diameter, which cuts a groove to allow a ¾ inch collar to ride in it, ensuring it doesn’t wander away from the template.
Speaking of wandering away from the template… yeah, I’ll fix that in a minute.
I took a second pass to cut the rest of the way through. Then I used some blue tape to create a dam, mixed up some epoxy, and filled in where I’d wandered off course. I smoothed out the epoxy and reshaped the curve with a rasp.
Finally, to cut the pattern out, I used a ¾” collar with a V-groove bit in a router to ride in the channel. But first I tested it, and any place it got hung up, I smoothed out with the rasp.
Building the Sides
Once I got the template finished, it was time to mill up some lumber to build the sides and put my template to the test.
Normally you’d see me use biscuits or dominos to help keep the boards aligned during glue-up. But since I was going to carve into these boards, I didn’t want to risk carving through a misplaced domino.
Instead of dominos, I clamped cauls across the workpiece to help keep it flat. Those riser blocks I set up gave me extra room to get a clamp head underneath, and the tape on the cauls kept them from being glued to the workpiece.
Once the glue dried, I ripped it to its final width at the table saw and cut it to its final length. Then I headed back to the table saw to cut a dado to receive the back panel.
Routing the Pattern
Finally, I got to test out my template! I lined it up, clamped it down, chucked up a V bit with the ¾” collar, and routed out the pattern. Then I flipped it over, clamped it down, and routed out the pattern on the other side.
Next, I used some double-stick tape and scraps of plywood to build up a little jig to route the center pattern.
That sound change you might’ve heard at the end? Yeah, that was the sound of it no longer cutting because the bit broke off. Classic.
Luckily it only had a ¼ of an inch left to go, so I just finished it up old school with a mallet and chisel. While I had the chisel in hand, I used it to clean up some of the fuzz left behind by the router.
I changed out the router for a ½” guide bushing and ¼” plunge bit and plunged out the holes for the adjustable shelves.
Making the Top and Bottom
Now it was time to mill up the 8/4 stock for the top and bottom. Same procedure as always, except instead of using cauls for alignment, I was back to using dominos.
The front of the bookshelf has a gentle curve to it. To create this, I plotted out the center and end points, ripped a thin flexible strip of scrap wood, drove some nails to act as pivot points, and drew in the curve.
I pulled out the nails and headed over to the bandsaw to cut it out. I made sure I left the line so I could refine the curve and sand away the saw marks at the spindle sander.
Now I used the template to trace the pattern on my workpieces, then roughed them out on the bandsaw. Instead of using the spindle sander to refine the edge, I double-stick taped the workpiece to my template and used a pattern bit to make an exact copy.
I needed to extend the dado for the back panel into the top and bottom pieces. Before heading to the router table, I made a relief cut with my chisel to prevent tear-out on the ends.
I set the height of the bit using a brass setup block, then added stop blocks on the fence so I’d have a starting and stopping point. Of course, the router left rounded corners, so I cleaned them up with a mallet and chisel.
Assembly
We’re on the home stretch! I used floating tenons to attach the top and bottom. Since this joint is end grain to long grain, it’s not going to be very strong on its own. So in addition to floating tenons, I used epoxy for the glue-up. Epoxy is gap-filling, so it soaks into the end grain and fills the gap between the two pieces, creating a joint strong enough for this bookcase.
Once I got all the glue spread on both sides of the joint, I started assembling it. I quickly discovered that this thing was tall and awkward to put together. Which is another benefit of epoxy—it has a long working time before setting up, so no need to panic.
Before the glue set, I did one final check to make sure it was square, then measured for the back. The back is just a piece of ½” plywood I cut to fit at the table saw.
Finishing Touches
Making the adjustable shelves was the same process as the top and bottom, except I added a filler strip to my jig to take into account the thickness of the sides of the case.
After painting, the only thing left to do was attach the safety straps for the customer to install on their end.
And that’s it! An Art Deco bookshelf with adjustable shelves. It was definitely a fun challenge, and I’m really happy with how it turned out.
I’m the owner of Benham Design Concepts, a mixed media art studio where I design and build custom furniture and other works of art using wood, glass, stone, and various metals.
In this blog, I talk about the art I create, my journey, and the things I learn along the way.