How to Build a Nakashima-Inspired Walnut Live Edge Table

This build was inspired by one of my favorite furniture designers, George Nakashima. It is a live-edge walnut slab that is joined to a walnut base using through tenons. The base is assembled using a complex bridle joint.

For more completion pictures, please check out my Custom Made Furniture Website

Some of the specialty tools I used. (Affiliate links – these help me do what I do)

• ½” spiral flush trim router bit https://amzn.to/2lhWRAq

• Stubby template router bit https://amzn.to/33lbkgE

• Japanese Dozuki Saw https://amzn.to/34CjRvG

• Minwax wipe on poly https://amzn.to/2AWjMWO

• Starbond CA Glue https://amzn.to/2BvNG3r

• CA Glue Accelerator https://amzn.to/2R7Ortc

• George Nakashima Soul of a tree https://amzn.to/3b0Ficl

 

Creating a live-edge table inspired by George Nakashima‘s iconic woodworking style is a rewarding project that combines traditional joinery with organic beauty. This guide will walk you through building a stunning walnut table with splayed legs, an arched base, and elegant through-tenon joinery.

Step 1: Prepare and Shape the Legs

Start by milling and ripping your leg stock to the final dimensions. Cut a bevel on the bottom of each leg to create the signature splayed outward stance that gives the table its distinctive look and stability.

Step 2: Cut the Bridle Joints on the Legs

The legs attach to an arched base using bridle joints. To cut the center notch for these joints, create a jig with an angled stop block glued in place to register the leg against and prevent tear-out from the dado blade. Clamp each leg securely and remove the material in several passes due to the depth required.

Since this is a wide joint, cut it in two passes. After completing the first pass on all legs, disassemble your jig and flip the stop block around for the second pass. This flipping method ensures the joint remains perfectly centered on each leg rather than moving the fence.

Step 3: Create the Arched Base

For the graceful arched shape, use a thin strip of maple bent between a few nails to draw your desired curve directly onto the workpiece. Before cutting the arch shape, cut the corresponding bridle joint using the same process you used for the legs.

Step 4: Cut Joints for the Leg Attachment

Build a custom router jig around one of your legs to ensure an exact fit. Clamp this jig to your arched base workpiece and route out the waste material. To transfer the dado location to the opposite side, use a marking knife and straight edge to mark a line completely around the piece, then reposition your jig and cut the matching joint.

During test fitting, if the joint is too tight, make small adjustments by resetting your jig slightly and sneaking up on a perfect snug fit. Once satisfied, take the piece to the miter saw and cut it to the final length, introducing a slight angle for added visual interest.

Step 5: Design and Cut the Bezier Curved Trestle

Use design software like SketchUp to experiment with different curve profiles until you find one that appeals to you. Print your design to scale, cut it out as a template, and trace it onto your workpiece.

Cut the necessary joinery using the same methods as before, then cut out the curved shape at the bandsaw. Refine the curves using a disc sander for convex sections and a spindle sander for concave areas. For any spots needing additional smoothing, use a flexible sanding strip to fair the curves by hand.

Step 6: Complete the Half-Lap Joint

The connection between pieces features a combination bridle joint and half-lap. Since marking the exact depth while square is difficult and table saw cutting would be dangerous, mark it carefully and make the final cut by hand. Test fit the joint and pare away small amounts until you achieve a perfect fit. The bottom can be sanded to match the radius after assembly.

Step 7: Calculate and Cut Leg Angles

Before cutting the legs to the final length, do some math to determine the angle at which they meet the arch so the tabletop will sit level. Once you’ve calculated this angle, cut all legs to their final length.

Step 8: Create Through Tenons on the Legs

The top attaches to the legs using through tenons, which will be visible on the table surface. Set up a stop block to cut all tenon shoulders to identical lengths. For the opposing shoulder, carefully reposition the stop block on the other side of the blade.

Cut the tenon cheeks using the same technique—cut one side, then slide the stop block over by the width of the tenon to cut the parallel opposite side. As you remove more stock, the piece may become difficult to handle safely on the table saw. At this point, lay out the remaining cuts and complete them by hand.

Step 9: Add Wedge Slots

To secure the tenons firmly to the top, cut two slots in each tenon at the bandsaw for wooden wedges. Drill holes at the end of each slot to relieve pressure and prevent the leg from splitting when you drive the wedges home.

Step 10: Assemble the Base

With five pieces and four joints to manage, use a glue with adequate working time. This allows you to assemble all components and make any necessary adjustments to ensure the top will sit perfectly level. Set aside to dry completely.

Step 11: Flatten the Live Edge Top

While the base dries, work on your live-edge slab. Since most planers can’t accommodate a wide slab, flatten it using a router sled—a simple jig that guides your router across the surface in systematic passes.

Step 12: Layout and Cut Mortises in the Top

Position your assembled base on the flattened top where it looks most balanced. Since the irregular live edge doesn’t provide square reference surfaces, build a template around the legs using CA glue and ½-inch plywood.

Using a stubby pattern bit, route pockets on the underside of the top following your template. Transfer the center point of each mortise to the face side using a ?-inch drill bit. Flip the top over and drill larger clearance holes for your router bit. This two-step process minimizes the risk of blowout on the visible face side—a large bit breaking through could create an unsightly splinter that would require removing significant material to repair.

From the top side, use a larger pattern bit to remove the remaining waste, then clean up the mortises by hand with a mallet and chisel. Remove the template material and test-fit the base.

Step 13: Final Fitting and Wedging

If the fit is too tight (which is common), carefully remove stock by hand in strategic locations until the base seats properly. Rip material for your wedges, taper them at the disc sander, and drive them firmly into the slots in the tenons.

Once the glue dries, trim the excess tenon and wedge material flush with the tabletop and sand everything smooth.

Finishing Touches

Your Nakashima-inspired table is now complete! The through-tenon joinery not only provides structural integrity but also serves as a beautiful design detail that celebrates the craft of traditional woodworking. Apply your preferred finish to protect the wood and enhance the natural beauty of the walnut grain.

This project showcases advanced woodworking techniques while honoring the philosophy of working with wood’s natural character—a hallmark of Nakashima’s enduring legacy.