For this video, I built a Veneer bag and storage system to help manage my veneer bag. Packing that thing is a lot of dead weight, and I didn’t want to risk it getting a hole punched in it.
You Can Download a Set of Plans here
I get most of my Veneer Supplies from https://www.veneersupplies.com/. Not a sponsor
I originally built this project three years ago, but held off on sharing it. After receiving numerous questions about my veneer system, I decided it was finally time to document the build. This jig makes deploying and storing vacuum bags much easier, and it can be modified to work with almost anything you need to roll up.
Materials and Tools
For this build, you’ll need plywood for the sides and frame, a wooden closet rod, screws, and some basic woodworking tools, including a table saw, band saw, spindle sander, and drill. I also used floating tenons for alignment, though you can substitute dowels or skip that step entirely.
Building the Side Panels
I started by cutting the sides roughly to size and laying out my design. The first circle I drew was slightly larger than the diameter of my rolled-up bag. I added a second circle just for aesthetics.
For the straight portion, I used my table saw and cut right up to where the curve began. I shut the saw down and waited for the blade to stop completely, which gave me a clean, straight edge to work from.
Next, I moved to the band saw for the curved sections. I’ll admit I was being lazy and didn’t bother changing to a blade that cuts tighter curves, so I just hacked away at it. I cleaned everything up at the spindle sander, bringing it right to the line and softening the sharp edges by rounding them over.
I drilled a hole slightly larger than the closet rod diameter so it would spin freely inside the jig.
Creating the Frame
I ripped several strips of plywood to create the frame and cut them to length. Then I cut mortises for floating tenons to help keep everything aligned during assembly. If you don’t have a mortise cutter, a dowel jig, or a router works fine, or you can skip this step altogether.
I did a test fit to ensure everything lined up properly. This is where those floating tenons really proved their worth, acting like a third hand to hold everything together.
Once I was satisfied with the fit, I countersunk and screwed the jig together. I rarely glue my shop jigs unless I need extra strength because I like the option to modify them later. After using jigs for a while, I often find areas for improvement, and it’s much easier to make changes when you can just remove a few screws.
The Closet Rod and Handle Assembly
I picked through the entire selection of closet rods at the big box store to find the straightest one they had (which was still somewhat bent, naturally).
For the handle assembly and keeper rings, I used a hole saw that was nice and dull from a previous roofing project where I’d drilled through asphalt shingles. I essentially burned through the wood with friction. Once I got the keeper ring cut out, I used it as a template to trace the shape for the swing arm portion of the handle.
After cutting it out at the band saw and cleaning it up at the spindle sander, I drilled holes in both the swing arm and keeper ring to allow the closet rod to pass through.
I used a pocket hole stepped drill bit instead of a proper countersink bit to countersink for the handle attachment screw. I made the hole slightly wider than the screw so the handle would spin freely.
For the handle itself, I used a piece of scrap maple, turned it round, and added some finger grips to get a little fancy.
Final Assembly
Before assembling the handle, I pre-drilled and countersunk through the edge of the plywood so I could add a set screw to attach the closet rod to the handle and keeper rings.
I screwed the handle in place, making sure it wasn’t too tight so it could still spin. Then I positioned the closet rod and added the set screw to attach the handle. On the other side, I left about a 1/8 inch gap between the side and the keeper ring and screwed it in place. This prevents the rod from sliding out during use.
To attach the bag to the closet rod, I used duct tape and really taped the heck out of it. Three years later, it’s still holding strong.
Design Considerations
My assembly table is 4 feet by 8 feet, and I use a heavy-duty vinyl bag that’s 5 feet by 9 feet from Veneer Supplies. To take advantage of the full bag size, I designed the jig to hang off the edge of the table and clamp in place when needed. This allows me to unroll the entire bag. When not in use, it stores out of the way on my top shelf.
My Vacuum Setup
I use a vacuum pump from Veneer Supplies (they’re not a sponsor). I upgraded the pump so I can run multiple bags at a time. I haven’t tried it yet, but I’d like to set up some smaller bags for multiple parts rather than rushing to get everything into this big bag.
I also use a breather mesh inside the bag to help evacuate all the air. The combination of the mesh and the flatness of my assembly table ensures everything comes out perfectly flat.
If you want to build one of these for yourself, I have a set of plans available on my website. This jig has made my veneer work so much easier, and I hope it does the same for you.
I’m the owner of Benham Design Concepts, a mixed media art studio where I design and build custom furniture and other works of art using wood, glass, stone, and various metals.
In this blog, I talk about the art I create, my journey, and the things I learn along the way.