How to Build a Walnut Balance Beam

When my daughter asked for a balance beam to practice her gymnastics skills, I saw the perfect opportunity to create something special. This project combines beautiful walnut furniture legs with a sturdy beam wrapped in soft suede—extravagant perhaps, but that’s the joy of being a maker.

Some of the Specialty tools I used in the Video (Affiliate Links)
• 3/4” Radius Round Over Router Bit https://amzn.to/2NOgdq7
• 1/2” Flush trim pattern bit https://amzn.to/2NQdWuK
• 1/4” Radius Round Over Router Bit https://amzn.to/2NIEuhg
• Domino 500 – https://amzn.to/2ktOH5K
• Amana Dado Stack https://amzn.to/2mQblX6
• Red Suede fabric by the yard https://amzn.to/2zAS5En

Step 1: Design and Create a Template

Design is an iterative process. I started with a scrap piece of plywood, marking out basic measurements for the leg size I wanted. Then I sketched curves, refining them until I found a shape that felt right.

Rather than tracing paint cans or relying on mathematical formulas like the golden ratio, I trusted my design eye. If it looks good to you, it will likely look good to others. Once satisfied, I cut the template free and roughed out the shape at the band saw.

Step 2: Refine the Template

At the table saw, I cut the template to the proper height. I drew in the lower curve and cut it out at the band saw, intentionally leaving the pencil line visible. This extra material allowed me to smooth saw marks and refine the shape at the spindle sander.

Step 3: Mill Your Lumber

Using the template as a reference, I set the table saw width and ripped walnut stock to final width. Then I traced the leg shape onto the stock, flipped the template over, aligned my center mark, and traced the other side. Flipping ensures perfect symmetry.

Step 4: Cut Mortises While the Stock Is Square

It’s much easier to cut mortises for floating tenons while the stock is still square, so do this before cutting out the curved shape. Once the mortises were complete, I headed to the band saw.

Step 5: Cut Out the Legs

The pencil line was hard to see against dark walnut, so I set up a portable light on the saw. I cut the legs about 1/16″ oversized to allow for cleanup and perfect matching to the template later.

Step 6: Route to Final Shape

I used double-stick tape to attach the template to each leg blank, with blue painter’s tape underneath to make separation easier. Using a pattern bit at the router, I took multiple small passes through the curves to prevent the end grain from catching and ruining the workpiece.

Pro tip: Always rout with the flow of the grain, or “downhill” when working end grain. When routing the opposite side, flip the workpiece—not the template—so you’re always routing downhill.

Step 7: Round Over the Edges

I used a 3/4″ radius round-over bit to give the legs a gentle, sculpted shape. Since I was rounding all four sides, two sides required routing uphill into the end grain on curves. To prevent catches and blowouts, I took many shallow passes until achieving a full round-over.

Step 8: Prepare the Beam

For the beam itself, I used standard construction lumber. I jointed several 2x8s flat, ran them through the planer to create parallel faces, then ripped them to final width at the table saw. After spreading glue, I clamped them together.

Step 9: Flatten and Square the Beam

Some boards weren’t perfectly flush after glue-up, so I ran the assembly across the jointer to reestablish a flat edge, then sent it through the planer to flush everything up. Once squared, I cut mortises for the floating tenons that would attach the legs.

Step 10: Create a Staple Recess

Since the beam would be wrapped in suede and stapled from underneath, I wanted to protect little fingers from wayward staples. I routed a recess on the underside for the staples. Multiple router passes left the recess ends slightly jagged, so I cleaned them up with a chisel.

Step 11: Cut Tenons on the Legs

I wanted the legs to fit inside the routed recess, so I used a dado blade to cut a shoulder on top of each leg, creating a small tenon. Then I used a round-over bit to ease the sharp corners—safety first when kids are involved.

Step 12: Wrap the Beam in Suede

My wife selected a beautiful red suede. I rolled it out and cut it slightly wider than needed to have plenty of working material. Starting in the middle, I stapled one side, then stretched and stapled the opposite side, working my way toward the ends.

The corners required patience. I kept folding and stapling, cutting off excess, then folding and stapling again until I achieved neatly folded corners.

Step 13: Attach the Legs

Using epoxy, I glued the walnut legs to the beam, ensuring the tenons fit snugly into their mortises.

Step 14: Conceal the Staples

As a finishing touch, I milled a piece of wood to fit inside the routed channel and secured it with screws, completely concealing the staples.

Final Thoughts

Is it extravagant to use walnut legs on a balance beam that my daughter will eventually outgrow? Perhaps. But that’s one of the great things about being a maker—you can create extravagant things just for fun, and the joy of building something special for someone you love is worth every bit of extra effort.